A unique local dish reemerging from the ‘cucina povera’ or ‘poor kitchen’ tradition is pig’s foot—transformed into a delicious roulade by chef Piera Spalla. At her family restaurant, Selvatico in Rivanazzano Terme, Piera prepares this dish with a modern twist. The roulade is filled with small pieces of liver, coated in breadcrumbs, and baked to perfection. It’s served with stewed monk’s beard (agretti), grilled potatoes, and finished with a vibrant pea coulis and black truffle—each bite a celebration of rustic Italian flavors.
Reviving Tradition with the Slow Food Movement
Piera collaborates with the Slow Food Movement, aiming to revive and preserve forgotten recipes. Her Albergo Ristorante Selvatico has been family-owned since 1912, a true staple of the region. With the help of her daughters and grandchildren, Piera ensures each dish showcases the most authentic local flavors, all made in-house—including the bread. A meal here is complemented by an impressive wine cellar, offering selections that perfectly pair with her creations.
A Guide to Oltrepò Pavese’s Culinary Diversity
Considered a guardian of Oltrepò Pavese’s culinary heritage, Piera was the ideal guide for exploring this hidden gem in the southern Lombardy region. “Oltrepò Pavese is like a foreign country, positioned between Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria, yet unique in its own right,” she shares. “This geographical crossroads has enriched our cuisine, blending flavors and traditions from neighboring regions, creating a vibrant tapestry of tastes.”
Tips for Experiencing Oltrepò Pavese’s Culinary Scene
Visitors to Oltrepò Pavese can enjoy the region’s rolling hills and rich culinary landscape by stopping at family-run establishments like Selvatico. Try dishes from the Slow Food-inspired menu, and be sure to sample the wines that reflect the region’s terroir. For a memorable moment, take a photo under the beautiful trees of the nearby Sant’ Alberto di Butrio monastery—Piera’s personal favorite spot.
It was a beautiful and interesting travel trough the nature and hills of Oltrepò Pavese! I took the picture of Piera under her favourite tree at the monastery Sant’ Alberto di Butrio.
Address: Albergo Ristorante Selvatico, Via S. Pellico, 19, 27055 Rivanazzano PV
