The Craft of Salame di Varzi: An Icon of Oltrepò Pavese

While in Varzi, a town nestled in the southern part of Oltrepò Pavese, I set out to taste the renowned Salame di Varzi. Paired with a traditional flatbread called schita, this salami offered a rich, rustic flavor that piqued my curiosity. To learn more about its unique production, I visited Salumi Magrotti, where owner Piero shared his insights on crafting this local delicacy.

The salami needs 8 weeks of ripening in different places. Therefore, at Piero Magrotti’s, the salamis are hung on a trolley with wheels and they are wheeled around every week to different rooms with different humidity and temperatures.

A Unique Recipe with Noble Ingredients

“The Salame di Varzi is not just made from ‘waste parts’—it includes the noble cuts, such as the thigh,” Piero explains. He combines finely chopped pork with whole peppercorns, salt, and red wine, a blend that infuses the sausage with a distinctive, full-bodied flavor. This thoughtful selection and preparation give the salami its signature taste and texture, setting it apart from other cured meats.

The Art of Aging Salame di Varzi

At Salumi Magrotti, the aging process of Salame di Varzi is taken seriously. Each salami undergoes an eight-week ripening period across various rooms, each with specific temperatures and humidity levels. “Our salamis are wheeled from room to room each week,” Piero shares. As the temperature gradually drops—from 16 to 10 degrees Celsius—the salamis mature slowly, allowing flavors to develop fully. “It’s essential that the salamis can breathe,” he adds. “As they dry, moisture migrates outward, and this slow temperature change refines the ripening.”

Serving and Storing Tips

Piero advises against storing salami in the fridge, as the ideal temperature for Salame di Varzi is 10 to 12 degrees. When asked how best to enjoy it, he recalls the traditional way: “The farmers would take a whole salami, a piece of cheese, and bread out to the fields. They’d sit under a tree and slice it fresh—that’s the best way to savor it!”

Experience the Flavor of Varzi

For those visiting Oltrepò Pavese, a stop at Salumi Magrotti offers not only a taste of the traditional Salame di Varzi but also a glimpse into its careful, age-old craftsmanship. If you’re looking to experience true regional flavors, try it fresh-cut with a rustic bread like schita.

Address: Salumi Magrotti, Montesegale, Fraz. Fornace, 8 www.salumificiomagrotti.it