From the bustling streets of Rome, I drive 75 km inland to Frosinone, a gateway to the Ciociaria region—a land rich in history, medieval villages, and natural springs. Nestled between Lazio and Abruzzo, this area is a hidden gem with its rolling hills and ancient charm. My destination: the renowned restaurant Da Plinio to explore the local gastronomy with owner and chef, Plinio Drogheo.
The Flavors of Ciociaria
Plinio greets me warmly and introduces me to the robust cuisine of the region. “In Ciociaria, our dishes are simple but bursting with exceptional quality,” he begins. While the cuisine shares its roots with Lazio, the influence of nearby Abruzzo is evident in the use of hearty, earthy ingredients. “We focus on the purest flavors, where the quality of the products speaks for itself. Whether it’s meat, vegetables, or fish from the Tyrrhenian Sea, you taste the land when you dine here.”
A Feast of Local Delicacies
Seated at a large table, I am presented with an impressive spread of local specialties. Plinio has curated a selection of typical dishes that capture the essence of Ciociaria:
- Authentic Cheeses: Pecorino di Picinisco, Ciambella di Morolo, Marzolino, Caciotta di Amaseno, and a rare piece of Antico Conciato di San Vittore.
- Buffalo Delights: Creamy buffalo mozzarella served with ripe tomatoes and rich buffalo ricotta accompanied by fresh figs.
- Cured Meats: A platter of fine cured meats, including capocollo, pancetta, and lardo from the Lepini Mountains’ famed black pig. The intense and flavorful Guarcino ham stands out.
All of these flavors are new to me, except the familiar mozzarella, but they quickly become unforgettable. “These products are unique to this region,” Plinio explains, “and can rarely be found elsewhere.”
The Perfect Wine Pairing
To complement this earthy feast, Plinio pours me a glass of Lu Vagu, a red wine from the nearby SantApollaria estate. The wine’s deep, rich notes enhance the bold flavors of the cheese and meat, making it the ideal pairing for a meal that truly celebrates the terroir of Ciociaria.
Practical Tips for Visiting Frosinone and Da Plinio
- What to Order: If you’re visiting Da Plinio, don’t miss the opportunity to try the local cheeses and cured meats, especially the Guarcino ham. Pair your meal with a glass of regional wine like Lu Vagu for the full experience.
- When to Visit: Ciociaria’s culinary delights are best enjoyed during the fall when the local harvest is in full swing. The natural springs and medieval villages in the surrounding areas also offer beautiful scenery and a break from the usual tourist trail.
- Getting There: Frosinone is a short drive from Rome and makes a perfect day trip. If you want to explore further, consider visiting nearby Abruzzo for a deeper dive into the regional influences.
