In 1891, the establishment of the Butcher’s House in the Testaccio district of Rome profoundly impacted Roman cuisine. The introduction of quinto quarto—the “fifth quarter” of the animal—revolutionized the city’s culinary traditions. After the prime cuts were removed (the two front and two back quarters), the remaining parts such as offal, tail, head, and legs were left. These once-discarded pieces soon became the backbone of Roman recipes.
With Sergio and Giugliano Esposito of ‘Mordi e Vai’ or ‘Bite and Go’ in Testaccio
Quinto Quarto: From Slaughterhouse Waste to Roman Delicacies
Slaughterhouse workers in Testaccio were often paid with the lesser cuts, such as tongue, liver, and lungs, and they found a market for them in local taverns. These modest ingredients were transformed into flavorful, hearty dishes that defined traditional Roman cuisine.
Iconic Roman Dishes Born from Quinto Quarto
- Coda alla Vaccinara: A rich, slow-cooked oxtail stew, seasoned with vegetables, herbs, and tomatoes.
- Trippa alla Romana: Roman-style tripe, made from beef stomachs, stewed with tomatoes, mint, and pecorino cheese.
- Animelle Fritte Dorate: Crispy deep-fried sweetbreads, a delicacy made from the intestines.
These dishes, once considered humble fare, have become Roman culinary treasures, still enjoyed in the city’s trattorias today.
Mordi e Vai: A Taste of Tradition in Modern Testaccio
In the heart of Testaccio, Mordi e Vai (“Bite and Go”), run by Sergio and Giugliano Esposito, continues to honor the district’s culinary heritage. Their sandwiches are stuffed with traditional quinto quarto meats, bringing these historic flavors to a modern audience.
Practical Tips for Exploring Roman Cuisine in Testaccio
- What to Try: If you’re exploring Testaccio, make sure to sample dishes like coda alla vaccinara and trippa alla romana at traditional eateries or grab a quick bite at Mordi e Vai for a sandwich packed with flavor.
- Where to Go: Testaccio is home to some of the best traditional Roman cuisine, and a visit to the market or local trattorias will immerse you in the district’s rich food culture.
- Best Time to Visit: Head to Testaccio in the early afternoon to enjoy a leisurely lunch, savoring dishes that are a testament to the ingenuity of Roman culinary history.
