After exploring Venice, my journey continues to Padua, just 40 kilometers away, where I discover La Folperia, a beloved food stall run by Max and Barbara Schiavo. Located in the heart of Padua’s Piazza dei Frutti, La Folperia serves one of the most famous street foods of the Venetian lagoon tradition: folpetti. These tender, cooked baby squids, known as moscardini, were once considered a cheap meal but have become a trendy street food delicacy.
La Folperia: A Local Landmark
La Folperia is a small kiosk, easily spotted by its bright red awning and white lettering, nestled beneath the Palazzo della Ragione in the corner known as the Canton delle Busie (the “corner of lies”). The name evokes the historic dealings and negotiations between merchants that took place here. Today, it’s where locals and tourists alike line up for a taste of the lagoon.
The folpetti are served in simple cardboard trays, staying true to the essence of cibo di strada (street food). Despite its humble presentation, La Folperia has become a revered destination in Padua’s historic center.
The Lagoon of Padua
While Venice is well-known for its seafood, Max explains that folpetti also have deep roots in Padua. Historically, the Venetian lagoon extended all the way to this city until the canals were drained in the 19th century. “The water really used to come up to this square,” Max tells me, linking the tradition of lagoon seafood to Padua’s past. This historical connection makes folpetti not just a treat, but a taste of the city’s heritage.
Practical Tips
Explore the History: The Canton delle Busie, where La Folperia is located, is steeped in history as the former hub for merchant negotiations.
Where to Find La Folperia: Look for the red awning under the Palazzo della Ragione in Piazza dei Frutti, Padua’s bustling square.
Try the Folpetti: These tender baby squids are cooked and served fresh in cardboard trays, a must-try for seafood lovers visiting the region.
Enjoy Street Food Culture: La Folperia offers a truly authentic cibo di strada experience. Be prepared to eat standing up or take your tray to enjoy in the nearby piazza.
