High in the Apennines, nestled in the town of Camerino, you’ll find Macelleria F.lli Bellesi, an artisan butcher shop where I learned about a unique and often underappreciated ingredient in Italian cooking: strutto, or lard. This simple but versatile product is central to many traditional Italian dishes, and I was eager to explore its role in the famed cucina povera.
Discovering Strutto at Macelleria F.lli Bellesi
Behind the butcher’s counter, Giovanni and Venanzio Bellesi proudly display freshly made strutto. “It’s a product deeply rooted in our culinary heritage,” Giovanni begins, pointing to a tray filled with the soft white lard. Strutto is the rendered fat from around the pig’s breast area, a humble but essential ingredient used in cooking and baking.“The beauty of strutto,” Venanzio adds, “lies in its ability to make dough rise perfectly and give it an irresistible aroma. It’s an integral part of the cucina povera philosophy—using every part of the animal, wasting nothing.”
How Strutto is Made
Making strutto is a straightforward process, but it requires skill and care:
- Rendering the fat: The fat from the pig’s breast is scraped, cleaned, and melted down slowly over low heat.
- Storing for later use: After setting, strutto can be stored and used in a variety of ways, from baking to frying.
- Straining and setting: Once the fat has fully melted, it is strained and poured into trays to cool and solidify.
The Role of Strutto in Italian Cooking
Though it may seem simple, strutto has been a key player in Italian kitchens for centuries, especially in traditional baked goods like piadina romagnola (a flatbread from Emilia-Romagna) and crescia (a type of savory flatbread from Marche). “It’s perfect for frying too,” Giovanni says. “With its high smoke point, it ensures a crisp finish.”
One of the most important aspects of strutto is how it connects to the ethos of cucina povera. The concept of making the most out of every ingredient—nothing goes to waste—is a principle that still holds true in kitchens across Italy today.
A healthy option?
The conversation inevitably turns to health, with many people concerned about consuming fats. “While strutto is natural, it does contain saturated fats,” Venanzio acknowledges. “It’s not for people with high cholesterol or cardiovascular concerns. But there are much worse oils you could use. And the flavor it brings to dishes is something special.”
Giovanni nods in agreement, emphasizing that moderation is key. “Used correctly, strutto can be part of a balanced diet. Its aroma and texture are worth it!”
Address: Macelleria f.lli Bellesi, Via Madonna dell Carceri 47, Camerino