Capon Magro is a classic example of cucina povera (poor kitchen), made with simple, long-lasting ingredients like vegetables, parsley, and preserved fish. Fishermen would use stale bread or sailor’s cakes soaked in vinegar as the base, layering it with fish and vegetables. This simple, but hearty fare was easily stored on boats and could be preserved with oil and salt, making it an ideal dish for life at sea. Today, Capon Magro is a cold fish dish that has been reimagined by creative chefs. Paolo of Mare Blu still incorporates the traditional ingredients but elevates the dish with luxurious touches like gambero rosso (red shrimp) and mussels.
According to Poalo of Mare Blu, Capon magro was invented by the fishermen. His version at the restaurant also still contains the poor ingredients of yesteryear. “The preparation is quite cumbersome. But now it is a revalued dish and should not be missing in our kitchen. We now also add more expensive ingredients, such as a ‘gambero rosso’ and a mussel as a ‘finishing touch’.”
All the traditional Ligurian cookbooks I consulted for the recipe of Cappon Magro agree on the necessity of a number of ingredients : the sailor’s cakes (type of dried schiacciatine from Liguria) as a base, beautiful fresh fish, various vegetables, a green sauce and some shellfish, but they all leave a lot of room for interpretation, both in the specific choice of fish and vegetables, in the order in which the layers should be assembled, and especially in the final decoration.
The essential ingredients
All the traditional Ligurian cookbooks I consulted for the recipe of Cappon Magro agree on the necessity of a number of ingredients. While every chef has their unique take on Capon Magro, certain ingredients remain consistent across all versions. These include:
- Sailor’s cakes (schiacciatine): These crispy crackers form the base of the dish.
- Fresh fish: A mix of local seafood, such as white fish and shellfish.
- Seasonal vegetables: Such as carrots, celery, and beets, all prepared and layered carefully.
- Green sauce: A flavorful mix of parsley, garlic, and oil.
- Decorative shellfish: Mussels, shrimp, or clams add the finishing touch.
Chefs often personalize the dish by varying the vegetables, fish, or even the presentation. It’s a canvas for creativity while maintaining the essence of Ligurian tradition.
Capon Magro: A Dish for All Occasions
Whether served as a street food delicacy or in a Michelin-starred restaurant, Capon Magro remains an integral part of Ligurian cuisine. It’s a true example of how humble ingredients can be transformed into something luxurious and flavorful.
Address: Mare Blu, Via Carli 5, Sanremo
