In the rustic region of Abruzzo, chef Antonio Perna from Ristorante Il Gallo di Pietra proudly introduces me to one of the area’s most authentic dishes: pecora alla callara. This traditional stew, made from mutton, carries with it the legacy of the shepherds who once roamed the mountainous terrain of Italy, their sheep, and the practice of transumanza—the seasonal movement of livestock.
The Origins of Pecora alla Callara
Pecora alla callara dates back to a time when nothing was wasted. In the days of the shepherds, female sheep that had died from old age or illness were stewed in a copper pot called a callara along with any vegetables, herbs, and wine that were on hand. To ensure safety, the stew would boil for hours, making the meat tender while infusing it with the flavors of the mountains. The dish not only reflects the resourcefulness of the people but also their deep connection with nature.
Chef Antonio’s Modern Take
“Whatever the circumstances that led to this recipe, pecora alla callara is a gastronomic highlight of this region. I also really enjoy preparing it myself. Of course, I now only work with fresh and healthy mutton, but I also put everything on the fire for a very long time. I can mix in a lot of fresh mountain herbs and wild vegetables, and the local white wine to vaporise,” Antonio proudly explains.
At Gallo di Pietra, Antonio prepares this historic dish using only fresh, healthy mutton, but he stays true to the traditional long cooking time. He explains that the beauty of pecora alla callara lies in its simplicity and the way the flavors of mountain herbs, vegetables, and local white wine combine to enhance the meat. Though the dish may not appear refined, Antonio promises that its taste is exceptional.
When Antonio serves me the dish, I can see its rustic origins. It’s not the most visually appealing dish, but after the first bite, I understand its significance. The mutton is so tender, it practically melts on the fork. The deep flavors of the herbs and vegetables elevate the dish, transforming it from simple peasant food into a culinary masterpiece.
A Glimpse into Abruzzo’s Shepherding Past
As I savor the dish, I imagine the shepherds, high in the mountains, gathering around the fire with their copper pots. It’s easy to picture their hard, yet fulfilling life, and how they created such an extraordinary dish from the humblest of ingredients. This connection to the past and the land makes pecora alla callara a true gastronomic highlight of Abruzzo.
To experience this dish yourself, visit Hotel Le Torri and Ristorante Il Gallo di Pietra in the picturesque village of Pescocostanzo, where chef Antonio will transport you back in time with his modern take on this ancient recipe.
Address: Hotel Le Torri Hotel – Ristorante Il Gallo di Pietra – via del Vallone 4, Pescocostanzo
