In Messina, a Sicilian city known for its proximity to the Strait of Gibraltar, one of the most beloved street foods is the pitone or pidone. This rustic, crescent-shaped pastry is similar to a deep-fried calzone, filled with rich local ingredients. Though often compared to other pizza-like foods in Italy, pitoni messinesi are unique to Messina and can’t be easily found elsewhere in Sicily.
The Cannata Family and La Boutique del Pane
I visited La Boutique del Pane, a famous panificio run by the Cannata family in the heart of Messina. Now with a location in Milan as well, the bakery specializes in pitoni and other traditional baked goods. I asked Chiara, one of the staff, what makes pitoni stand out from similar products in Italy.
What Makes Pitoni Special
Chiara explained that pitoni are defined by three key characteristics:
- The softness of the dough: The dough, traditionally made without yeast, is softened by lard or margarine.
- The golden breadcrumbs: These give the outside of the pitone a perfect crispy texture.
- The local fillings: Traditional pitoni are filled with tuma cheese, escarole (endive), and anchovies. However, other variations include fillings like tomato and mozzarella or ham and cheese.
After being stuffed, the dough is fried in hot oil, creating a crispy yet soft street food delight.
The Name: Pitone or Pidone?
There are two names for this iconic dish: pitone and pidone. The origins of these names are debated:
Others argue that the original name was pidone, derived from pede or foot, referring to a ‘woolly inner stocking’. This could connect to the metaphor of calza, or sock, used for pizza calzone. The Sicilian dialect may have led to the change from pidone to pitone due to a difference in pronunciation.
One theory attributes the name pitone to the Greek mythological creature Python, the serpent-dragon slain by Apollo at the Delphic Oracle. The name could symbolize the crescent shape of the dish, reminiscent of a serpent.
Practical Tip: When making pitoni at home, try experimenting with different fillings like tuma cheese and escarole, or opt for classic Italian combinations like tomato and mozzarella.
Address: Cannata – La boutique del Pane, Via xxvII Luglio, 81, Messin
