From Bolzano, I drive 60 kilometres south to the capital Trento in the province of Trento. When I ask the locals what the typical folk dishes are here, the answer is unanimous: canederli. In Trento, the bread balls, which are seasoned with bacon, cheese or vegetables, are also a real delicacy. But unique in the province are the tortel di patate and smacafam, both dishes you will not find in Alto Adige.
When I want to taste the traditional dishes, I have to look for the rather historical trattorie or birrerie, because this food is not on the menu in restaurants or not among the offerings in ordinary bars. There is a real revival of the popular food in this city, but in combination with beer. Or rather the other way round, the traditional dishes are paired with beer. Throughout the region, there is a remarkable qualitative and quantitative growth of a brewing industry that projects itself in the cities.
It is, of course, particularly good for lovers of traditional street and folk dishes that beer companies like Forst have jumped on this wagon. They revive the dishes and their folklore.
It is a proven successful concept. In addition to regular beer sales, the parent company also manages several local Forst beer locations with a similar concept, such as this one in Trento. In the Trentino Alto Adige region, there are 9. And there is one in Trieste. While in Milan, Verona, Venice, … and some other big cities outside the region, they operate under the name Spiller.
The Birreria Forsterbräu in Trento is a reference point. Up to 1,000 covers a day are served here in the season. “Tourists specially take the exit to us during their trip, to immerse themselves in our cosiness and traditional food with beer”, says the manager Nicola Malassoni.
Address: Via Paolo Oss-Mazzurana, 38, Trente www.forst-trento.it/
(1) Tortel di patate (2) Smacafam (3) My gorgious view every morning at the camp site in Calceranica Al Lago