Tarallo ‘nzogna, pepe e mandorle

The taralli biscuits with lard, pepper and almond are the most popular snack of Neapolitans. Round, plaited and crumbly, they are part of the intangible Neapolitan culinary heritage.

The tarallaro
The travelling tarallaro unfortunately no longer exists. The most famous and beloved tarallaro was called Fortunato Bisaccia. He was the son of a love affair between the widow of a naval officer and a coachman. He was raised by his mother alone amidst countless difficulties in the big city. He had no education and earned a meagre income by selling hot taralli on the streets on behalf of the local bakers. He was forever a beloved and respected tarallaro and did it all his life. The comic character brightened up the streets with songs, jokes and real Italian theatrical skits. Between 1950 and 1990, you could see him in his white uniform. You could recognise him by his converted pram in which he pushed the taralli from the bakery to the city streets. He made sure his taralli were perfect: golden, with good almonds and warm. That’s why he kept them well packed in a bag, with blankets and cellophane so that their smell and freshness would be preserved until sunset.”

Fortunato Bisaccia